GO & STAY

People thought we were crazy embarking on a road trip from Sussex to Perthshire. Yes, the drive was long and flying might have been easier, but oh, how we were rewarded as we neared our destination; watching the land rise, skimming through the trees, past rivers and Lochs, until finally, we pulled into the grounds of family-run farm and hotel, Monachyle Mhor.

Our home for the next few days was Pilot Panther, a lovingly converted 1950’s showman’s wagon overlooking the dramatic lochs and mountains of Blaquhidder Glen. The views were endless, and the changing light, colours and reflections on the mirror-like loch held us captive throughout our stay.

The wagon’s main living space features a large, cosy sleigh bed, a small but well equipped kitchen and a log burner. I have to admit, I’d been a little concerned about how warm we would be at night, but the stove kept the whole place perfectly toasty.

Off the main space there’s a double bunkroom, with plenty of storage, and outside is a seating area, BBQ and fire-pit. The conveniences are just a minute’s walk away in the hotel, which is wonderful, stylish and welcoming. We felt we had the best of both worlds, being able to make use of the facilities, and then retreat to our own special space by the side of the loch.

We quickly fell in love with wagon-life. Time quiets and slows, making way for board games and reading, before an afternoon walk. We filled our bellies on sausages sizzled on sticks over the fire-pit, and snuggled to sleep listening to the crackle of the log burner.

SEE & DO

From fishing and biking to horse riding and hiking, as you’d imagine the opportunities to embrace the great outdoors are plentiful. For us though, it was an opportunity to slow down, and we spent our days taking gentle walks and drinking in the views, greeting the resident highland cattle we passed to-ing and fro-ing from the wagon.

There are plenty of walks for all levels straight from the hotel. We opted for a reasonably short one starting from the church in Balquhidder itself. The glen is the home of the MacLaren and MacGregor clans, and the most notorious MacGregor of them all, Rob Roy, is buried in the churchyard.

Starting out on our walk, we stopped at the waterfall where we were lucky enough to spot red squirrels. Continuing our climb, we passed beneath huge firs and hopped over streams, before emerging at the most incredible viewpoint looking out across the lochs, mountains and villages surrounding the glen. We kept an eye out for hawks and deer on our descent, but sadly, they were not to be seen on this occasion.

I’m rather fascinated by waterfalls, so was also excited to come across a beautiful spot tucked almost out of sight beside the entrance road. We climbed across huge boulders to watch the waters whoosh and swirl. And if you look back towards the road downstream, you’ll spot the moss covered arch of the original stone bridge – one might almost imagine fairies or water sprites meeting in that spot!

In the waning light and descending mist of the late afternoons, we returned to the comfort of the hotel and relaxed in the lounge, warming our fingers around cups of hot chocolate before dinner.

EAT & DRINK

Monachyle Mhor is something of a foodie retreat and I highly recommend treating yourself to a meal in the hotel. The ethos is on slow food, and it really is quite an experience. That said, they also cater happily to the simpler tastes of children. Breakfast was a delight with poached eggs on Mhor toast, but my favourite was the fresh, made-on-order scones, and the walnut cake we sampled in the afternoons.

The Mhor family have a range of establishments in the local area and we worked our way around them. The food was fantastic at every stop, and a real highlight of our stay.

We headed out for a morning in Callander where we found a good range of shops for stocking up on local produce. Here, you’ll also find Mhor Bread, a bakery, shop and tea-room, and a lovely stop for lunch. We also drove out to the Mhor84 Motel which was great for a more informal (but just as delicious) bite. The only Mhor venture we missed was Mhor Fish, a good enough reason to return I think.

Images by Sarah-Lou Francis